1500VA per appliance branch circuit (kitchen, laundry) * 4 (3 kitchen, 1 laundry) = 6000VA for appliance branch circuit loads.1200ft^2 * 3VA/ft^2 = 3600VA for lighting and general receptacles.Since you have a 100A service, I can use the simplified calculations from 220.84, which give you 3VA/ft^2 for the house, 1500VA per Small Appliance Branch Circuit (kitchen/laundry), and the fixed appliances at nameplate rating (it sounds like you have none though), as well as 100% of the nameplate rating of the A/Cs. This can be done - the subpanel still has load to spare, albeit only by an amp I think some of the labels are inaccurate as the washer is clearly running off the sub-panel at this point. I appreciate any knowledgeable wisdom sent my way. IF I have to upgrade the electrical service on the main panel to do it I might as well stick with propane. I just need to know if my setup can accommodate an electric water heater. ![]() There have been no issues with tripped breakers under the current configuration. ![]() As best I can tell I might be spending more on propane ($3.50+/unit) compared to what electric would cost to run (9c/kwh). ![]() The electric water heater is less than half the price even for a larger tank. I need to know if I can add a two-pole 30A breaker and run 10-2 wire to an electric water heater (4500 watt). My propane water heater needs replacing and I am looking at around a grand just for the replacement. A 60A breaker runs to a sub-panel that currently contains breakers for the electric stove (50A), electric dryer (30A), washer (20A), and a room with a light and a few outlets (15A). Here's the scenario: Main panel is a 100A service ( GE PowerMark Gold LoadCenter) with all slots filled.
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